Pohnpei-Between Time & Tide . Kolonia Town -- continued


Kolonia Town -- continued

ther than the bell tower of the German Catholic Church, another church remains in full. This Protestant church bears an architectural style reminiscent of European cathedrals. Strangely, though, it was constructed by Japanese Christian missionaries in the 1930's. The third major structure to survive the bombings was the Japanese Agricultural Station at the southern end of Main Street.

Despite being bruised and battered, Kolonia has refused to die. After the war, the town was rebuilt a second time and served awhile as the capital of the F.S.M. Little Kolonia continues to grow rapidly each year. The undisputed commercial district of the island, the town supports almost 10,000 of the island's inhabitants. Migrating Pohnpeians seeking jobs in the cash economy have swarmed inward to the point where there is actually rush hour traffic at certain times of the day (strange as it may seem). A community college, several large grocery stores, numerous small restaurants, shops and bars, and a legion of video stores insure that Kolonia's streets are active even at night. And yet, Kolonia is a place with a comfortably slow pace. It is relaxed, leisurely--a town full of comatose dogs⁽¹⁾ under weather-bleached awnings, cackling kids, multitudes of lackadaisical toads⁽²⁾, chocolate-dark eyes, and slow, beautiful smiles. The romantic can't help but love this town, juxtaposed between its two peaceful harbors.

Amazingly, the urbanization process has not buried the town's history. Look nearly anywhere and you can see it plainly. The Protestant Church and Catholic bell tower, the agricultural station, Porakied, and the Spanish wall. Each landmark has its unique story to tell. Even Kolonia's earth holds the bones of history. The brave leaders of the Sokehs Rebellion lie in a mass grave at Kumwunlaid. German administrators, Viktor Berg (who died mysteriously at Nan Madol), his ill-fated successor Gustav Boeder, and Polish anthropologist Johann S. Kubary all lie in gravesites around the town. Though greatly changed throughout its rough evolution, Mesenieng still lives on.

THE TOURIST COMMISSION OFFICE

Pohnpeian boy Visiting Kolonia is like opening a treasure chest stuffed with the relics of history. There is so much that it is easy to miss a few things, which brings in the usefulness of the Tourist Commission Office. The TCO is a small red-roofed building on Main Street guarded by an old Japanese tank with red and yellow camouflage and Mr. Mwakelekel, the poster-boy for local environmentalism. The congenial women at the TCO will tell you more than you want to know about everything and nothing, but if you are wide-eyed and wide-minded, you may learn more from these women about the real Pohnpei then you ever could from a dog-eared tourist pamphlet. VISIT THE FSM VISITORS BUREAU

(1) DOGS (Canis familiaris), called kidi (kee·tee), were brought to Pohnpei by the first Micronesian settlers. Today the mangy mongrels are kept as pets or roam semi-wild throughout the island. Historically, dog meat was considered a tasty delicacy. They are still eaten on occasion at special feasts.

(2) TOADS (Bufo spp.): Perpetually obese toads (kairu - keye·roo), introduced by the Japanese to combat mosquitoes and snails, are rampant in Kolonia. The amphibians mass in such vast numbers (especially after heavy rains) that it is sometimes difficult to avoid stepping on them. Desiccated, pancake-thin remains are a common sight on Pohnpei's roads.

Text by Alex Zuccarelli 2003.
Image/Photo credits: Pohnpeian boy photo (with modification) courtesy of Daniel Moor ©2000-01. Toad photo (with modification) courtesy of Mamoru Kawamura ©M. Kawamura. Gallery; 5 courtesy of Anthony Jones ©1997-2000, 6 courtesy of Anthony J. Zuccarelli ©1999, 7 courtesy of Cheri Zuccarelli ©1999. All other photos, images, and maps property of Alex Zuccarelli.
All photographs on this page were used with the written permission of their perspective owners, except where otherwise indicated. In a few cases--typically old, historical photos--I was not able to determine the original source or photographer.

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On-Line Resources