The Eels of Pwudoi
Pwudoi's LocationA.K.A.: Pwudoi Sanctuary, Pwudoi Eel Pool
District: Kitti
At a Glance: 35 min drive from Kolonia. $6-10 pp.

  CLICK HERE for directions to the Sanctuary

 

 

 
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Giant eels gather in a river pool in Pwudoi.  
t the Pwudoi Wildlife Sanctuary in Kitti, visitors can witness one of the most bizarre shows on the island of Pohnpei. Pohnpeians belong to matrilineal clans associated with animal totems. The high clan of Lasialap(1) is the clan of the Great Eels. The Lasialap believe that the slippery, fresh-water eels that dwell in all Pohnpei's rivers are their relatives. As oral history states, the matriarch of the Lasialap clan was a large eel of this variety. In Pwudoi, members of the eel clan have a special pool in which lives a squirming mass A Lasialap boy lifts a small eel of utterly huge eels. For the squeamish entertainment of groups of foreigners, men and boys 'call' the great eels to the shallows where they actually slither their way out onto the bank. The eels are then stroked and picked up, resting limply in the hands of their masters. Strangely, if you ask permission to pick up the eels yourself, you find that they struggle like the dickens to your own touch. These eels are quite fearsome in appearance, but are actually very passive in reality. And, they are very large---the heads of some are larger than the average adult's fist. They have small teeth and could deliver a nasty bite, but one rarely hears of them doing so. People who swim in rivers are always among them, but are never bothered unless food is thrown into the water. Even then, the eels go after the food, not the swimmers.  Because the freshwater eels are considered sacred and directly related to human lineages on the island, there is a strong taboo against eating the creatures on Pohnpei.

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(1) Lasialap (la·see·a·lap) is the royal clan of U, from which comes the members of the Nahnmwarki title line in that municipality.

Boy feeding eelsEels in Mythology

Eels play a prominent part in Pohnpei's mythological stories and are portrayed both as benevolent and as terrifying monsters.

The founding myth of the Lasialap Clan recounts how a couple was pursued by a vicious eel, which hatched from a rock. After devouring the couple, the eel dwelt in the Lehdau River for many years. When death finally took the monster, its huge carcass formed the mountains of Nett.

Another eel, called Mwasenlang (worm of heaven), was killed, and from its bones sprouted the a particular type of banana, which was new to Pohnpei.

  • Text by Alex Zuccarelli 2003. 
  • Image/Photo Credits: All maps and photos property of Alex Zuccarelli.
  • All photographs on this page were used with the written permission of their perspective owners, except where otherwise indicated.

Last Updated:  25-Apr-2004  Pohnpei-Between Time & Tide © Winahni Productions/Alex Zuccarelli 2003.